Monthly Archives: July 2016
Even though I am a certified Palmer/Pletch Fit instructor, I am also a certified shortcut-taker. I know the correct way to alter a pattern to fit, but I my brain automatically tries to find a faster way. And, owning a shop and setting up a website keep me busy, so I’m always doing everything at the last minute.
As I prepared to teach a Sewing with Knits class, using the Jalie Dolman Top pattern, I felt too rushed to do a proper full-bust adjustment. I also wanted to give my students an easy alternative to an involved full-bust adjustment.
Noticing that the center front of the shirt is on the fold, and the Jalie pattern drafters moved the center front farther and farther out as the size increased, I decided to cut out the size based on my high bust measurement, but add fabric at the center front by cutting the center front on the size that fit my full bust. I then cut out the top in our lovely rayon/poly stripe knit in black and cobalt.
I hemmed the neckline, instead of binding it, and added sleeves. I love it. The back fits well, and the deeper, wider neckline formed by cutting a larger size at the center front is cute and flattering.
Then I taught the class again. Only two students signed up, and I knew they would both benefit from a full-bust adjustment. I was curious how a true FBA would compare to my cheater FBA, so before the class, I altered the pattern using the Palmer/Pletsch Knit for Real People book, and here is the result. I used Riley Blake’s Four Corners Knit in Black. I bound the neck, which raised the neckline a little, but as you can see, the two methods created two very different looks.
So, if you love the neckline on a pattern, do a traditional full-bust-adjustment, as described in Fit for Real People and Knits for Real People, but if you want a wider neckline, just add fabric to the center front. That’s why we love sewing. Everything is custom, just for us!
It’s easy to fall in love with sewing when you’re surrounded by gorgeous fabrics. As every new shipment comes in, I swoon and sigh, and the wheels start turning. By now I'm pretty sure I’ve got a plan in mind for all 1,036 bolts of fabric in the shop. But let me back up.
I was not always into sewing. Before starting at The Confident Stitch six months ago, I’d learned how to do the basics, and throughout the years made some curtains, napkins, and tote bags. In other words, very square things. My attempts at clothing always ended in frustration, irritation, and an utterly unwearable piece of clothing. After each attempt, the sewing machine ended up back in the basement to collect dust.
Thankfully, I have since discovered a whole world of inspiration, and, more importantly, instruction. I’ve been introduced to the sewing blogs and Instagram accounts of talented sewers and pattern designers across the world, and am excited by a new generation of modern garment makers. The tutorials available online, particularly from the independent pattern companies we stock, are an invaluable resource. Closer to home, I am constantly impressed by the things our customers make; no two look alike, and each person's interpretation of a pattern is unique to their style. Finding this network of makers and doers online and in my own community convinced me to give garment sewing another chance. Armed with some good patterns and lots (and lots) of patient advice from Kate and Bonnie, I’ve become nothing short of obsessed.
I’ve always been a consumer of other people’s creativity – artwork, food, books – but now I’ve discovered a way to explore my own. Just as quickly as I learn a new pattern, I end up changing it. Some changes are functional; I often need to tweak darts and or add length to the torso. Some are purely for fun: adding a shirt-tail hem or a keyhole neckline. But that’s the beauty of making my own clothing. It’s truly my own – the pattern is just the jumping off point.
I still take out almost as many stitches as I put in. I’ve cursed at more bias binding than I care to admit. And I require much, much more practice before I can comfortably embrace the label of seamstress. But along the way I’ve learned that some silhouettes work on me and some never will, that my back has a deep curve to it, that my top half and bottom half are two completely different sizes. I’ve learned that clothes I’ve made myself are washed more carefully, worn more frequently, and complimented more often. I’ve learned the difference between rayon and voile, bamboo versus soy, and been introduced to that most magical of fabrics, double gauze. I’ve learned that a single pattern has infinite possibilities.
And so, piece by piece, I’m building a handmade wardrobe, and building confidence in my skills. I’m heartened that the slow fashion movement is gaining momentum and that there is a new generation of (mostly) women breathing fresh life into sewing and pattern making. I’m stubbornly optimistic that we have options beyond the chains selling us unsustainable fashion. And did I mention that sewing is just fun?
Quilting is another matter entirely. I’ll let you know when I take that plunge…
Welcome to The Confident Stitch! We are glad you’re here! Our goal is to help you feel empowered to express yourself through fabric, whether you’re making clothes that fit just right, a quilt, or just playing with scissors.
Take a virtual stroll through the shop – we have fine fabrics from around the world, high-quality notions, patterns from independent designers, inspiring books, buttons, ribbons – everything you need to make your next project a success.
All of the products in our little shop are organized by category and attribute. We have also cross-referenced products with companion products, such as fabrics with appropriate patterns -- to help you find things, and to make browsing more fun!
We’d like to say this site is the culmination of a year of hard work, but The Confident Stitch feels more like a work-in-progress! Let us know what you love and what could be improved. We’ll accentuate the positive and improve the improve-able!
While we worked hard to describe, photograph and link every item, credit for the beauty and quality of this site goes to Flying Horse Communications, and our web developers, Drew Schug and Wes Broadway. They did amazing work taking Kate’s vision for a great website to reality.
We will also be using this blog as a forum for describing our experiences sewing with the patterns and fabrics you see in the shop.
We look forward to getting to know you!
Kate, Jane, Bess and Bonnie
(03) 9842 8442
Donvale, VIC, 3111
Collins Street Optometrists
14 Collins Street
(Dist) Shoe The Bear
+45 2521 0823
Vestergade 49 B
Bågar & Glas
103 95 Stockholm
112 33 Stockholm
08-454 35 00
Gallerian, Hamngatan 37
103 26 Stockholm
08-35 35 08
191 48 Sollentuna
+47 22 46 29 40
Bogstad v. 11
Five Stars Showroom
+ 34 934 869 931
c/Llull, 51. 4 - 5.
We have a shop!
139 West Front St.
Missoula, MT 59802
Hours: Tuesday through Friday 10am to 5pm. Saturday 11am to 4pm
The Confident Stitch
Handcrafted clothing is the epitome of enduring quality and timelessness. Sewing your own garment puts you in control of every aspect of its look and feel, from the fabrics youʼll use to the strength of the stitching. And itʼs easier than you think. My goal is to guide you with clear, professional instruction to create the wardrobe pieces that youʼll turn to first for years to come. My passion is sharing the confidence that comes with knowing each cut is done right, and each stitch is bringing you closer to crafting your next favorite garment!
Fit matters. Fit is what makes the difference between the dress you spend half the evening yanking up or down, and the dress that makes you feel elegant and polished wherever you are. Fit is the difference between bunching and gapping, and making the right impression at the right time. Womenʼs bodies are so beautifully diverse. Having the skills to determine fit and sew for your unique shape will allow you to step outside the fashion industryʼs ever-changing sizing chart and into the rewarding world of custom made, just for you.
Through The Confident Stitch Iʼll be updating you on my own sewing adventures, and
offering helpful tips on how to be your own favorite fashion designer and custom tailor.
As the project evolves, Iʼll be offering a customized line of sewing products and carefully
curated fabrics so you can get everything you need to start your next project in one
place. I look forward to keeping you posted on whatʼs happening here - in the
meantime, I want to hear about what youʼre working on, and what youʼre excited to
Visit the Shop:
139 West Front St.
Missoula, Montana 59802
Hours: Tuesday-Friday 10 am until 5 pm; Saturday 11am until 4 pm
The Confident Stitch is a gathering spot for anyone who delights in the fine details, and major triumphs, of handcrafted garments.
We believe life is too short, and too lovely, not to wear clothing that embraces your figure and expresses your individuality - we want every woman to share in the confidence that comes from a garment that fits perfectly. This blog explores the simple pleasures of combining fabrics that make your heart sing, with custom-made patterns that curve with your body. We also provide the resources you need to transform your great sewing idea into your next favorite outfit, confident that each stitch is bringing you closer to a perfect combination of form and function.
The Confident Stitch
Dovetail is a versatile and stylish business template. It is easy to set up and welcomes visitors with thoughtful, modern layouts. Dovetail is popular with businesses of all kinds for its contemporary style.
Sizes & Values
Site Width - sets the width of the site content including canvas padding.
Page Description Width - controls the width of the page description when shown in the Page Banner area.
Canvas Padding - adjusts the amount of spacing around the inside edge of the canvas area.
Navigation Link Spacing - determine the amount of space set between each navigation link.
Header Padding - controls the amount of space below the navigation and site title in the header area.
Page Padding - sets the amount of space at the top (under banner area) and bottom of the page content.
Page Banner Height - determines the height of the page banner area holding the page thumbnail, title and description.
Footer Padding - controls the amount of space at the top of the footer area, below the top border.
Logo Height - sets the maximum height of the logo that is assigned to the site.
Social Icon Size - set the size of the (non-social-block) social icons.
Header Alignment - controls the alignment of the logo (or site title) and navigation in the header area.
Footer Alignment - controls the alignment of the footer text and navigation in the footer area.
Page Borders - sets the thickness and display of the footer and page borders including horizontal rules placed with LayoutEngine.
Social Icons - controls the display of the (non-social-block) social icon links.
Page Banner Full Width - toggle the width of the page banner image between edge-to-edge and content width.
Hide Page Banner - disables the entire page banner area.
Hide Page Title - hides the page title inside the page banner area when enabled.
Show Site Info Icon - reveals an icon in the far upper right corner of the canvas that when clicked shows site info in an overlay.
Blog Meta Color - sets the color of article meta information like tags, dates, author etc.
Blog Post Spacing - controls the amount of space between each blog post in list view.
Blog Sidebar Width - determines the width of the sidebar when displayed in a blog.
Blog Sidebar - controls the position / display of the sidebar within a blog.
Hide Blog Author - turns off the display of an author name within the blog post meta.
Gallery Navigation - determines the type of gallery image navigation is provided on the page.
Gallery Info Overlay - select the type of display used for image title and caption.
Gallery Aspect Ratio - controls the aspect ratio (width:height) for the gallery active slide.
Gallery Arrow Style - determines the style of the arrows used to cycle through the slides.
Gallery Transitions - select the transition styles used to animate between slides being viewed.
Gallery Show Arrows - choose to use arrows for cycling through slides.
Gallery Auto Crop - choose to auto crop slide images to the selected ratio.
Gallery Autoplay - choose to cycle gallery images automatically without user interaction.
Gallery Loop - enable a gallery to cycle through to the first slide after the last slide.
Gallery Autoplay Speed - specify the speed at which the gallery pauses on the active slide.
Gallery Thumbnail Size - control the height of thumbnail images when used for gallery navigation.
Gallery Arrow Background - specify the color that is used for the shape of gallery arrows.
Gallery Arrow Color - specify the color that is used for the arrow itself.
Gallery Circle Color - specify the color that is used for the circle shape gallery arrows.
Gallery Info Background - specify the color used in the background of the image title and caption.
Product Background Color - sets the color behind the product image.
Product Overlay Color - sets the color of the overlay when product list titles are set to 'overlay.'
Products Per Row - determines the number of products shown per line on the product list.
Product List Titles - controls the position of the product title on the product list.
Product List Alignment - sets the text alignment of the product title on the product list.
Product Item Size - select an image ratio for the product photo on the product list.
Product Image Auto Crop - determines whether product images fill the image area or fit within.
Product Gallery Size - select an image ratio for the product gallery on the product item page.
Product Gallery Auto Crop - determines whether product images fill the gallery area or fit within.
Show Product Price - shows the price on the product list page when enabled.
Show Product Item Nav - shows the 'back to shop' link on the product item page.
Event Time Format - toggle between 24 hour or AM/PM for event times.
Event Icons - enable icons on the address and event time display.
Event Thumbnails - show an image thumbnail in list view.
Event Thumbnail Size - controls the size (ratio width:height) of the event thumbnail image.
Event Date Label - enable date overlay on top of event thumbnail.
Event Date Label Time - include the time of the event with the date overlay.
Event Excerpts - show optional excerpt text of events on the list view when present.
Event List Date - show the full event date (day, month, year) of the event on the list view.
Event List Time - show the time range (start time-end time) of the event on the list view.
Event List Address - show the event location address when present.
Event iCal/gCal Links - show links to add events to Apple or Google calendars.
Event Like and Share Buttons - show Squarespace simple like and share buttons on events.
Event List Compact View - enable a simple stacked view of events in the list view.
Event Calendar Compact View - enable a simpler calendar view optimized for smaller areas.
In Depth Guide
Our Customer Care team has created a very useful guide on Using the Dovetail Template if you'd like a more in-depth look.
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Terms & Conditions in short
- By ordering any of our products, you agree to be bound by these terms & conditions.
- By placing an order at Vasuma, you warrant that you are at least 18 years old or have parents' permission to buy from us.
- All personal information you provide us with or that we obtain will be handled by Vasuma as responsible for the personal information.
- Events outside Vasuma's control shall be considered force majeure.
- The price applicable is that set at the date on which you place your order.
- Shipping costs and payment fees are recognized before confirming the purchase.
- Card information is transmitted over secure SSL encryption and is not stored.
- Please note that local charges may occur.
- Vasuma reserves the right to amend any information without prior notice.
Terms & Conditions
This page contains the terms & conditions. Please read these terms & conditions carefully before ordering any products from us. You should understand that by ordering any of our products, you agree to be bound by these terms & conditions.
By placing an order at Vasuma, you warrant that you are at least 18 years old (or have parents' permission to buy from us) and accept these terms & conditions which shall apply to all orders placed or to be placed at Vasuma for the sale and supply of any products. None of these terms & conditions affect your statutory rights. No other terms or changes to the terms & conditions shall be binding unless agreed in writing signed by us.
All personal information you provide us with or that we obtain will be handled by Vasuma as responsible for the personal information. The personal information you provide will be used to ensure deliveries to you, the credit assessment, to provide offers and information on our catalog to you. The information you provide is only available to Vasuma and Tictail and will not be shared with other third parties. You have the right to inspect the information held about you. You always have the right to request Vasuma to delete or correct the information held about you. By accepting the Vasuma Conditions, you agree to the above.
Events outside Vasuma's control, which is not reasonably foreseeable, shall be considered force majeure, meaning that Vasuma is released from Vasuma's obligations to fulfill contractual agreements. Example of such events are government action or omission, new or amended legislation, conflict, embargo, fire or flood, sabotage, accident, war, natural disasters, strikes or lack of delivery from suppliers. The force majeure also includes government decisions that affect the market negatively and products, for example, restrictions, warnings, ban, etc.
All products remain Vasuma's property until full payment is made. The price applicable is that set at the date on which you place your order. Shipping costs and payment fees are recognized before confirming the purchase. If you are under 18 years old you must have parents' permission to buy from Vasuma.
All transfers conducted through Vasuma are handled and transacted through third party dedicated gateways to guarantee your protection. Card information is not stored and all card information is handled over SSL encryption. Please read the terms & conditions for the payment gateway choosen for the transaction as they are responsible for the transactions made.
Please note that local charges (sales tax, customs duty) may occur, depending on your region and local customs duties. These charges are at the customers own expense.
The first type of cookie commonly used is "Session Cookies". During the time you visit the website, our web server assigns your browser a unique identifier string so as not to confuse you with other visitors. A "Session Cookie" is never stored permanently on your computer and disappears when you close your browser. To use Vasuma without troubles you need to have cookies enabled.
The second type of cookie saves a file permanently on your computer. This type of cookie is used to track how visitors move around on the website. This is only used to offer visitors better services and support. The text files can be deleted. On Vasuma we use this type of cookie to keep track of your shopping cart and to keep statistics of our visitors. The information stored on your computer is only a unique number, without any connection to personal information.
Vasuma reserves the right to amend any information, including but not limited to prices, technical specifications, terms of purchase and product offerings without prior notice. At the event of when a product is sold out, Vasuma has the right to cancel the order and refund any amount paid in the best way. Vasuma shall also notify the customer of equivalent replacement products if available.
Squarepace is not responsible for any content, interactions or transfers made on http://shop.vasuma.com.
All enquiries: firstname.lastname@example.org
You are entitled to an exchange or refund within 14 days of your purchase. Please note that the product must be returned unused, in original packaging including all tags. In case of refund neither the original shipping cost nor the return shipping cost will be repaid. You can find the return address under vasuma.com/contact.
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