When I first saw the Burnside Bibs up on Sew House Seven’s website, I excitedly called Jane over to the computer screen to gawk at the new release. She glanced over and then casually surprised me by pulling the pattern from behind the counter, Oh you mean these?
Basically Jane’s a saint and let me borrow her pattern to trace. I’m still low-key insisting that we all wear them as shop uniform. So far, only Mairin, Kate’s daughter, and I have them made up (Bonnie, our shop seamstress, sewed Mairin’s, I sewed mine). I swear they’re not just for 20-somethings!
The Burnside Bibs have two front bib options – a scooped neck or the traditional straight front. Both bibs work with either version #1 or version #2.
Version #1 is a more fitted back pant with back waist darts and an invisible side zipper opening, however, the ties still form a small amount of gather at the back waist.
Version #2 is a looser back pant that slips on over your hips and does not have a closure to sew. This version is fuller and more gathered in the back. Use your hip measurement to determine your size for version #2.
Both versions also feature a front waistband, curved front patch pockets, optional back pockets, and cross-back straps that transition to narrower ties that thread through back waist belt loops forming back waist gathers. They may be tied in many ways – at the back, front or sides. The legs are somewhat wide and can be made full length or cropped.
00-20, Bonnie made size 0 in Version 2 for Mairin; I made a size 6 in Version 1 for myself. If I made them again I would size down to a 4 or 2. I made the “fitted” vision but it fits more like Version 2 because it gathers around my waist.
Bonnie used the Carolyn Friedlander Euclid Essex Linen in Cadet. I made them in the Robert Kaufman Montauk Twill in Deep Sea. I was going pretty fast through the construction stages and wasn’t paying attention to the wrong side/ right side of the fabric on the twill. Let’s just say my Bibs are made more unique with the back right side out, and the front wrong side out.
The instructions for most steps are very detailed. This would be quite helpful to the beginner sewer! The pocket prep, for instance, is very thorough — some steps don’t even seem necessary (like serging the outer edges of the pocket!) However, on other steps Bonnie anticipated more instruction like asking for graded seams (bib/waistband/front & back pant) or advising to clip curves on the front and back center seams (the rise) before serging.
Bonnie felt concerned the cut would be too full — we weren’t using a drapey fabric – but they came out beautifully in the linen!
adventures in zippers…
I didn’t have an invisible zipper foot, so I made do with a standard issue zipper foot for my machine. I stitched as close as possible to the zipper teeth but still had issues at the end of the zipper tape and getting around the zipper head, which I fixed with some creative hand-sewing. With using a medium weight twill, I found it tough to stitch through the bulk of seams in the waistband and front bib. This became more obvious when I tried on the bibs and found my zipper getting stuck on the waistband! If I made them again in this weight of fabric I would use a standard zipper and skip the invisible.
The only other glitch I had was fitting the front bib facing. My facing was too large for my front bib & waist (this could have been me cutting incorrectly….) I ended up hand sewing part of the facing to ease/gather some of the excess fullness.
Most people who come in the store love the Burnside Bibs but are too afraid of how they’ll look on! For me, I first tried to pair the bibs with a collared shirt and it quickly became a period piece for 1940s women’s workwear. (This look may come in handy tonight — I might improvise a halloween costume and wear these as Rosie the Riveter!!)
Mairin tied hers in a bow in the back. I pulled my ties to the front and tied in a single loop in the front. Should we make a quiz on how people tie their bibs and what is says about their personality?!