The Merchant & Mills Eve Trouser

The Merchant and Mill’s Eve Trousers in the Robert Kaufman Thick-Woven Yarn-Dyed Cotton in Spice

Have you ever tried on a garment that instantly boosted your self-confidence? In a perfect world, every garment hand-made for you would elicit instantaneous self-love. But, unfortunately, this is not always the case. Sometimes, no matter how much we love a garment, we don’t necessarily love ourselves more because we’re wearing it. At the same time, there are those pieces of clothing that, (like those infamous Pants of the Traveling Sisterhood), magically magnify every good thing about you, as well as make those physical features you may usually degrade, infallible. As my grandmother once said, while admiring her favorite all-purple outfit in the mirror, “I don’t care what anybody says, I look great!”

These fabulous Eve Trousers made just for me from our unique Thick-Woven Yarn-Dyed Cotton in Spice, embody my grandmother’s sentiment. In them, I feel like Katherine Hepburn: spirited, fierce, and unwaveringly self-assured!

Hot Off the Press

This pattern, relatively new, and already wildly popular, is impossible to keep in stock! (Apparently I’m not the only one who feels like a Hollywood starlet in these pants!)  Cropped and slightly tapered, they simultaneously accentuate the waist and lengthen the leg without clinging unflattering at the hips or thighs. Simply put, they do precisely what a good pair of trouser is designed to do! You can choose to include or exclude cuffs, depending on whether or not you prefer a more traditional look.

There are no front pockets drafted in this pattern which is inconvenient. However, in the case of the Eve Trousers, I’ve chosen to relax my strong pro-pocket beliefs, because the lack of front pockets in this design actually heightens the over-all sophistication of the garment. What’s more there are two, good-sized, patch pockets on the back to make up for any functional deficit.

Patch pockets and center-back zipper, closed at the top with a hook and eye.

Made to Measure

In catering to my rather curvy measurements, Bonnie cut the pattern pieces between (several) sizes. These trousers are a 10 at the waist, a 14 through the rise, a (generous) 12 through the hips, and a regular 12 through the remainder of the garment. The photos Merchant & Mills feature on their pattern and website of these trousers, are less tailored than the pair Bonnie made for me. While a less-fitted look in these trousers can be complimentary, especially if a stiffer fabric – like our Ventana Twill – is used, the Yarn-Dyed Cotton in Spice’s natural drape makes any excess fabric in the hips look sloppy rather than fashionable. 

Closer to Closure

Throughout this sewing process, the most drastic alteration Bonnie made was moving the zipper from the side seam to the center back. Her reasoning was that zippers installed at the side seam sometimes cause an irritating puckering when the wearer sits or walks. But, by putting the zipper at the back, this ‘side effect’ is avoided. Additionally, I like the symmetry created be moving the zipper. It caters to my my Type-A personality. 

The Fabric

Thick-Woven Yarn-Dyed Cotton in Spice

The unique combination of sea foam green and rust in this Thick-Woven Yarn-Dyed Cotton in Spice, creates an iridescent illusion. An already visually interesting fabric due to the thick weave, these colors provide additional depth. However, the downside to this interesting amalgamation, is that color matching with other garments can be tricky! Unsurprisingly, choosing to isolate the dark orange or light green within this cotton is the easiest way to match, but as you can see above, a dark green matches reasonably well, as does an off white or eggshell like our Raw Silk Noil in Cream.

As previously mentioned, this fabric’s weave is thick and textured, but also a little loose. As such, Bonnie took care to to fuse interfacing to all the back-center, and inseams for durability’s sake. (A smart move, since I plan on wearing these out!)

Chuffed to Bits!

Bonnie had a great time making these trousers. The pattern’s instructions were easy to follow, and the results were (clearly) satisfactory! Her only lament, when it comes to Merchant and Mill’s patterns in general, is that a conversion from metric to imperial measurements is not included in the pattern. Fortunately, we live in an age of information and conversion charts are readily available. The Sewing Notebook blog has a particularly thorough, and easily printable, chart which contains formulas for converting commonly used imperial and metric measurements, and a descriptive conversion chart that goes up to a little over three yards. Just follow this link to check out the chart.  

Star of the Show

For too long I avoided trousers, believing them to be generally unflattering. But, the Eve Trouser pattern has proven that sentiment wrong a hundred times over. Confident and comfortable, in these trousers, I am ready for my close-up Mr. DeMille!

 

2 thoughts on “The Merchant & Mills Eve Trouser

  1. Barbara J says:

    You look great in those trousers. They are high on my to-do list so enjoyed your review. I am not curvy in the slightest and I’m sure my fitting changes will be completely different but the relocation of the zipper might be copied.

    • Maisie Gospodarek says:

      Thanks for reading Barbara!The zipper feels really natural in the back, and, with a hook and eye at the top, it’s not bulky at all – I think Bonnie made a good adjustment. Good luck making yours! I’m sure they will be great. (PS if you frequent social media, please tag us! We’d love to see your results.)

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