How to Trace a Sewing Pattern

Whether you purchased a tissue pattern or you printed a PDF pattern at a copy shop, it’s a good idea to trace it onto Swedish tracing paper or exam-room paper. Tracing allows you to preserve the original pattern so you can sew other sizes. You can make fitting adjustments to the traced pattern pieces without fear of messing up the original lines. Additionally, once you’ve traced it, you can use it repeatedly, and it saves time on every future garment. I’m going to show you how to trace a sewing pattern (relatively) quickly and accurately. 

If using a PDF pattern, print your PDF sewing pattern (see my previous blog post for where to print). Tape pages together if necessary.

If you have a tissue pattern, cut roughly around each pattern piece that you’ll use in your project, and remove wrinkles by pressing with a dry iron from the wrong side of the tissue.

Gather tracing paper (your choice of Swedish tracing paper, exam paper, etc.), pencils and markers, pattern weights, and pins. You’ll also want a straight-edge ruler and a French-curve ruler, if you have one.

Familiarize yourself with each pattern piece before placing the tracing paper on top, so you know what to trace.

Clear a large, flat work surface. Roll out your PDF pattern or arrange your tissue pattern pieces on the surface. If you’re using tissue pattern pieces, arrange them in a manner that will minimize the amount of tracing paper you’ll need. Choose the size you plan to trace. Highlight the cutting lines for your size in a bold color so they are visible through the tracing-paper overlay.

Place tracing paper over the pattern pieces and secure it with pins and pattern weights.

Trace the cutting lines for your chosen size. Smooth the curves with a straight-edge ruler or French curve. Be sure also to include grainlines, notches, darts, pleats, and fold lines. I also add seam allowances to make pin-fitting the tissue more accurate.

Next, label each pattern piece with the pattern name, pattern piece name and number, size, grainline, and cut quantity (e.g., cut 2 of main fabric and 2 of interfacing). You may be tempted to skip this step, but as you build your library of traced patterns, the labels will help you keep the patterns straight.

After you have traced and labeled all the pattern pieces, it’s time to cut them out along the lines. By keeping the original pattern uncut, you will be able to trace and cut other sizes in the future.

After sewing the garment, fold or roll the traced pieces neatly. You can press the paper with a dry iron to flatten it when you want to use it again. Be sure to store the instructions and the key or legend with the pattern.

Ready to start tracing patterns? You’ll want to have Kate’s Pattern Tracing Checklist by your side! It includes all of the information in this blog condensed into a handy, printable checklist! Click here to access the checklist! You’ll be asked to enter your email address and after you do the checklist is all yours. Happy tracing!